Archer Asks: Clothier Clarence Chai

Clarence Chai is a gay Singapore-born Australian clothier and vintage clothing dealership. Prominent in Melbourne and Sydney into the 1970’s and ‘80’s, he was truly the only Chinese fashion designer in Melbourne for a time. Some of his garments are located in nationwide Gallery of Victoria together with Powerhouse Museum Sydney. Their manner label is presented in numerous guides, most notably

Vogue Australian Continent.

Let me know about anything fantastic you made for yourself.

A team of all of us were attending the Arts Ball in Melbourne early 70s. We wore a mini gown manufactured from brass curtain rings protected with fuse line. Silver sequins had been put into strategic locations. It was in winter months plus it was freezing. I experienced to loosen up the ensemble on my electric blanket to place it on. Next somebody was required to do myself up at the back with fuse wire. Everybody which came too near myself or try to give myself a hello hug were snagged of the finishes of the fuse wire. Next day, i came across my hands had been chock-full of minor incisions through the fuse wire.

In a 1978 interview, you said that the clothes you concept are ‘non-sexist. They can be worn by female or male, they usually have a flexibility we are able to all benefit from.’ Exactly what compelled you to follow this gender-fluid aesthetic inside manner styles?

I’ve long been into androgyny. David Bowie was my personal determination. I adore just how David Bowie cultivated their picture. I became a massive fan specially during his Ziggy Stardust period when their halloween costumes were designed by Kansai Yamamoto. We shaven my personal eyebrows, had a Bowie haircut and would paint my personal temple red-colored or hot red whenever gonna events. This was at that time when Boy George of community Club was generating swells. Other homosexual vocalists then followed: Elton John, Marc Almond from Soft cellular, Freddie Mercury from Queen and Pete Burns from dry or Alive. Probably it was during this period that we cultivated gender fluid aesthete during my styles.

Are you experiencing any top three favorite clothes you developed? Can you tell me about them?

My manner job spanned 36 years, generally there had been most garments created. Primarily, my personal favourites had been the special one off items. This package ended up being featured in

Female’s Time.

The leading had been straightforward. This is the back that’ll change heads. The ceramic tiles had been cut from a sheet and tiny holes had been drilled in order that it could be linked as well as sterling silver rings. It took about 400 links therefore the straight back section ended up being made into the dress anchored with small black colored beans. I made the earrings, too.

Another favorite apparel of mine was designed in 1980 or ‘81. Dark jersey with rainbow rouleaus. The model is a transgender buddy who modelled a whole lot for me personally.

What had been your clients like?

My personal customers were very different. It began with hairdressers, folks in the film and television sector. Then medical practioners and architects. The conventional client were ladies in their thirties or earlier, earning a great earnings. Some purchased for operating, although some would splash for special occasions.

Just who or just what happened to be your concept impacts?

Whenever I first started, we used my Asian history as motivations like Japanese kimonos and Chinese Cheongsams. My personal favourite developers during that time had been Kenzo, Thierry Mugler and Claude Montana. After That, Issey Miyake, Yohji Yamamoto, Junko Watanabe.

Appearing back at your very own encounters, what guidance can you give young people who wish to are employed in manner – as manufacturers, as shop owners, as enablers, etc.?

My personal information to young people commencing would be to perform a company training course whether for trend building or maybe just planning to acquire a shopping shop. Next, i might advise doing work for a designer basic or even in trend retail to grasp the processes through the business side of things. As much as three-years’ experience before striking out on your own. Whenever I began I happened to be so eco-friendly and had to master in the process. The majority of innovative people have no idea of company and I had been no exception. Have excitement, drive and notion in your work, or a very clear vision of what you want. It’s advisable that you specialise because’s a jungle online.

There is going to be brand new manufacturers coming-on the world. It is harder now since we now have really cheap, disposable garments available on the market and on the Internet. Forget creating road clothing – it’s as well aggressive. Do little collections and unique one-offs. Next establish the brand. I was privileged I had hairdressers, stylists and makeup writers and singers who placed myself in the gay men near me map. A few of them struggled to obtain fashion periodicals, and suggested my personal garments for the editors. When magazines like

Vogue Australia

paid interest, my personal designs shot to popularity and various other journals started initially to get interested. All promotion is good.

The author thanks Australian Continent fashion historian Tom McEvoy for insights and introductions that made this post feasible.

To find out more about Clarence Chai, queer style and the Australian style scene of 1970’s and ‘80’s, consult


Dr Sally Gray’s

Buddies, Fashion and Fabulousness: the generating of an Australian Continent Style

(Australian Scholarly Publishing, 2017).

Angela Serrano is actually a Melbourne writer and fine-art product. She had been a 2017 Wheeler center Hot Desk Fellow. Pronouns: She/her/they/them. Twitter:
@angelita_serra
Instagram: @angelita.biscotti